disease

Day 88 – Patty Pan Push Lasagna Bed Further Ahead

2011/07/28
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Day 88 – Patty Pan Push Lasagna Bed Further Ahead

A couple of more pattypan squash have pushed the lasagna bed even further ahead, at almost 2.5 pounds (1.13kg) total yield from this gardening technique.  I remember over fourty years ago getting ready for “the coming of the metric system”.  Now, thankfully – we’re seeing it replacing the imperial system with popular foods measured in whole metric amounts (2 litres of beverage, 1 litre of cooking oil, etc.), glad I had those lessons, wish I remembered them – but I digress. Patty pan squash, aka pattypan, cibleme, scallopini, button squash,  and others (see wikipedia for details), is similar in texture and flavor to zucchini squash.  They are often picked when they are no more than three inches in diameter (76mm).  At this stage, the seeds are immature enough tthat they are similar in texture to the rest of the squash and are cooked and eaten with no difficulty. When grown beyond three inches, the seeds become tougher, the insides start to become...

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All About Strawberries

2010/07/21
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All About Strawberries

“…There are three major types of strawberries, though if you counted, youd find over six hundred varieties! Different shapes, sizes, colors and growing habits differentiate these wonderful treats. The major types of strawberries are: June Bearing either early, mid or late Day Neutral bearing throughout the season Alpine small, but packed with flavor! …” via All About Strawberries.

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15 Homemade Organic Gardening Sprays and Concoctions That Actually Work : Planet Green

2010/01/23
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15 Homemade Organic Gardening Sprays and Concoctions That Actually Work : Planet Green

While “Sluggo” will still be in my arsenal until I can find a better solution, making my own bug killers will greatly reduce the cash outlay as well as keep the added chemicals out of my garden. 15 Homemade Organic Gardening Sprays and Concoctions That Actually Work : Planet Green.

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Green Thumbs: Notes of a difficult growing season – Hanover, MA – Hanover Mariner

2009/10/29
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Avoid composting tomato foliage or any other leaves which may have been diseased. To rejuvenate depleted garden plots or improve poor, heavy, or sandy soils, spread several inches of organic material in the form of shredded leaves, well-decomposed manure, compost, and peat moss over the surface; top-dress with lime, wood ashes, or gypsum and turn all the amendments into the soil with a digging fork or a tiller. A thorough fall cleanup, conditioning, and turning of the vegetable garden will ensure an earlier planting season next spring and hopefully Mother Nature will provide better growing conditions. via Green Thumbs: Notes of a difficult growing season – Hanover, MA – Hanover Mariner.

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Some conflicting information re: fungicides for tomato plants

2009/08/24
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“…Organic fungicides for the prevention and control of fungal disease include neem oil, Serenade® and Oxidate®. Compost tea is often recommended by organic aficionados, but research doesn’t support its effectiveness. Fungicides containing copper may have some effect but copper products may have a higher risk rating than conventional fungicides. …” This is the first report of risks regarding copper that I’ve seen, but it’s worth investigating, as well as investigating the “organic” controls such as neem oil (seems the safest at first glance), Serenade and Oxidate – wondering what they have in them via What to do about your dying tomato plants.

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Tomato Late Blight – good information

2009/08/19
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Tomato Late Blight – good information

Good information for those of us who have been hit by the blight, as well as those who haven’t: “… Late blight is one of many fungal diseases that can destroy your garden’s bounty. In the northeast US, it’s decimated many a home and commercial garden. While many are blaming the “big box stores” for bringing this scourge, the weather has played a big roll in it’s distribution as well. Learn the signs, safe practices and proper disposal of diseased plants to minimize this dreadful disease in the coming years. …” Tomato Late Blight.

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Polycyclic Epidemics – Know the Disease Cycle

2009/08/13
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Polycyclic Epidemics – Know the Disease Cycle

Late blight has hit most of our tomato plants.  Matt’s Wild Cherry’s have so far shown resistance, but most of the others have been affected. The Hack: Bag the diseased plants, DO NOT COMPOST – it will only grow you a new crop of fungus next year.  Hoping the potatoes are doing okay. Polycyclic Epidemics. See also: Potato Late Blight Fungicide alternatives For a good pictorial, see: Late Blight Symptoms from Cornell U. “You can’t spray if you are going to go organic,” Clark said. Copper-based fungicides that can be used in organic growing are in short supply, Clark added. “…Not all of Clark’s tomatoes have been lost. An heirloom variety called “Mr. Stripey” and the cherry tomatoes seem to be resistant. Clark has planted a new crop of tomatoes in his greenhouse, so he’ll have some later in the season. …” from http://www.salemnews.com/punews/local_story_224220157.html Look for Safer brand fungicide or get http://www2.yardiac.com/long.asp?item_id=32949&AID=10378099&PID=3344049

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Richard Nunnallys Gardening Q&A | Richmond Times-Dispatch

2009/07/31
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Richard Nunnallys Gardening Q&A | Richmond Times-Dispatch

Q:What suggestions do you have for controlling weeds and undesirable grasses in asparagus and strawberry beds? Crabgrass has also infiltrated the liriope in my borders. The Hack: Pulling the weeds and mulching, according to Richard.  My best solutions are newspaper (5 layers) as a killing mulch + lawn clippings (if you don’t spray your lawn) or straw mulch on top.  Asparagus, as Richard says is more difficult, due to the ferns – but my hack is to crowd the weeds out with low growing tomatoes like Red Robin or others that normally grow in containers – the smaller the better.  They may not produce much, but you’ll find the companion planting will produce robust asparagus next year! via Richard Nunnallys Gardening Q&A | Richmond Times-Dispatch.

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Tomato troubles – Late Blight Decimates Garden

2009/07/29
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Boston, MA USA “… Here’s an innocent victim who sent me her sad experience with the potato late blight: “I am from upstate NY. I am an organic gardener with 63 heirloom tomato plants of 23 different varieties, all gone. I am in tears. I have 100% loss. I inspected every day and the blight took my plants in matter of hours.” …” The Hack: any sign of blight on a tomato plant, bag it, seal it, DON’T compost it, and plant something else there next year – not potatoes either! Legumes (beans), cruciferous (cabbage, broccoli, etc), umbellifers (carrots, etc.). Tomato troubles – Gardening – Gardening tips, questions, and more – Boston.com.

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Free Info in Sustainability Permaculture Visions

2009/07/26
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Free Info in Sustainability Permaculture Visions

Free is good! Free Info in Sustainability Permaculture Visions.

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Get rid of those weeds once and for all – Oregonlive.com

2009/07/24
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Get rid of those weeds once and for all – Oregonlive.com

The Hacks: mulch, drip irrigation, cultivation, crop rotation, close spacing and cover crops.  Good article. Get rid of those weeds once and for all – Oregonlive.com.

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More on Septoria (blight), and avoiding it next year

2009/07/16
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“… If you are an organic gardener, you can use a sulfur spray once a week — but for future reference, those crumbled leaves that fell off into the garden soil can be the startup for septoria next year.To not be dragged into a panic attack next year: Begin spraying when the tomatoes are about the size of small marbles or just start preventatively spraying at the beginning of July. …” copper sulfate spray (Concern copper soap fungicide) would be what to look for – thanks Skippy! via Gretchen Voyle: Steps will ensure the T arrives to the BLT | livingstondaily.com | Livingston Daily.

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Spotting Late Blight

2009/07/12
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The warmer days and cooler nights are prime conditioins for late blight. “… Late blight symptoms first appear as somewhat circular, water-soaked spots near the edge of expanded leaflets. These spots expand rapidly during moist weather to form irregular brown, dead areas. There is often a light green margin between the dead tissue in the center of the spot and the normal green tissue outside the spot. The real diagnostic feature of late blight is the white, downy-looking mold that develops at the margin of the spot on the underside of the leaflet. If the white mold is not obvious, remove the suspicious leaflet and put it in a plastic bag with a moist (rung out well, not sopping wet) paper towel for 24 hours to see if this symptom develops. If it does not develop, late blight is probably not the cause of the leaf spots you are seeing. …” Late blight possible as warm days head into...

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